Natty and neon Emporio Armani
One felt like one got a ticket on a futuristic airline at Emporio Armani, as the master designer took his audience on a neon-drenched tour in Milan Fashion Week on Thursday afternoon.
His message: this fall, every youthful and happening hipster will be raring to travel again; and Giorgio Armani has got everything they will need in his wardrobe for them to have a great time.
Staged in a darkened set, illuminated by a hyper-color neon version of Emporio Armani and its signature eagle logo, this video show even had a little wink to current Netflix hits – with a contemporary Daphne Bridgerton in a regency blue, pleated frock coat finished with an uber red, oversized fabric flower.
The deb’ had oodles of potential gentleman admirers – from the career minded chaps in perfectly cut suits with a fresh truncated double-breasted jacket with tapered pants, to the rugged playboys in black velour hoodies with contrasting matt bands.
Yet there was nothing retro about these clothes for the gals - from the joyful pink tweed slouchy boleros or jaunty petrol blue mannish suits, to the feather trimmed chenille tops and graphic techy zig-zag print cocktail hour tuxedos.
And, in a moment when there’s yearn for a return to nature – and pretty much every show has an Aran look - Giorgio topped them all with an anthracite cable sweater and matching dressing gown combo. Kicked on by a great galactic trance soundtrack, the show also emphasized a techy element like the circuit-board prints coats with funnels collars.
Half-way though, the show changed gears with a French touch; albeit more 'Emily in Milan' than in Paris. Berets, floaty mini jackets; black velvet mini skirts; cloche hats; beautiful gamine pant suits and even Balenciaga-like black, semi-cocoon nylon coats.
During the pandemic, few designers have kept as quiet a profile as the octogenarian Armani, which, given his age, makes abundant sense. But though he has lain low, he has not been lying around.
This first rate collection was also all about a designer, and his team, working very hard. Helping to make sense of a dark moment in history by doing what they do best – creating flattering clothes for the moment everyone has been waiting for. When we can finally get on with our lives again.
The truth is, most designers know in their heart if they have just created a powerful collection. From Giorgio’s evident mirth as he took his bow, it was clear he knew he had just nailed this one.
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