Paris Fashion Week Men’s striking line-up
After London, Florence and Milan, Paris is set to close the menswear fashion week’s seasonal marathon in style. The Paris Fashion Week Men starting on Tuesday June 18 and ending on Sunday June 23 features one of the most lavish calendars in the last few seasons, with no less than 60 catwalk shows dedicated to the Spring/Summer 2020, compared to 56 shows in January and 50 in June last year. The climax of the week will be the majestic ‘Karl for Ever’ event dedicated to Karl Lagerfeld, scheduled on June 20 at the Grand Palais.
The calendar includes four new names, three come-backs and three absentees, for a fashion week in which emerging designers will play a big part. Usually, the week's opening day is relatively quiet, but this season it will see no fewer than 10 shows, starting in the morning with Palomo Spain, the label by Spanish designer Adolfo Gomez Palomo, who returns to Paris after hopping over to New York last season.
In Palomo’s wake, Bode and Phipps will stage their maiden shows on the official Parisian calendar. The two emerging US labels are among the eight finalists of this year's LVMH Prize, whose winner will be announced in September. Bode is a menswear line launched in 2016 by New York designer Emily Adams Bode, who uses old fabric cuts to create unique patchwork clothes, infused with a subtle, nostalgic vintage feel.
San Francisco-born Spencer Phipps graduated from New York’s Parsons School of Design, and launched his unisex label Phipps in Paris in January 2018, making sustainability its hallmark. A former menswear stylist at Dries Van Noten who also worked for Marc Jacobs, Phipps strives to create beautiful clothes in an environmentally friendly fashion.
Israeli designer Hed Mayner, who has earned a slot among the LVMH Prize finalists, will take to the catwalk later the same day. Mayner has featured on the Parisian calendar since June 2017, and his will be a show to follow closely, since Mayner is also one of the four finalists vying for the ANDAM Prize 2019, which will be awarded on June 27. After studying at the Bezalel Fine Arts school in Jerusalem, Mayner completed his training at the French Fashion Institute in Paris. In 2015, he launched his own unisex label, whose flowing cuts are a blend of different influences and cultures.
Alongside Bode and Phipps, another US label will feature in Paris for the first time: Sies Marjan will stage its first show entirely dedicated to menswear in the French capital on June 22. The emerging label was launched in 2016 by Sander Lak, formerly with Dries Van Noten, and has already made a name for itself with women's ready-to-wear, showing in New York.
Top of the Fashion Week Men’s billing will of course be leading luxury names and world-renowned labels like Louis Vuitton, Dior Men, Hermès, Valentino, Celine, Off-White and Vetements. Not to mention Balmain, whose show on June 21 promises to be a true rock/techno festival, an evening entirely dedicated to music featuring a set by French DJ Gesaffelstein and a series of post-show concerts, with 1,500 seats reserved for the general public.
Two other highlights are the come-backs of Y/Project, on Wednesday June 19, and of Lanvin on Sunday 23. The former is back on the Parisian runways after showing at Pitti Uomo last January. Lanvin gave the previous fashion week a miss after the departure of Lucas Ossendrijver, who designed the label's menswear collections for 14 years. The French label is back this season to unveil its latest menswear collection, the first designed by Bruno Sialelli.
This summer season, French label Jacquemus has opted to withdraw from the Paris Fashion Week. To fête the label’s 10th anniversary, designer Simon Porte Jacquemus decided to show in his native Provence, where he will present his men's and women’s collections on June 24. Another absentee is Boris Bidjan Saberi, who has opted to showcase his work with a presentation, to let buyers and the media take a closer peek at the collection, and better appreciate the quality of its clothes.
No show for Cerruti 1881 either. The label is giving this fashion week a miss, but will be back in January. Cerruti 1881 recently changed hands, after giant Chinese textile and apparel conglomerate Shandong Ruyi acquired a majority stake last year in Trinity, the subsidiary of the Li & Fung group which owned Cerruti 1881 since 2010, alongside Kent & Curwen and Gieves & Hawkes. The acquisition did not trigger any internal change at Cerruti 1881, but was followed by a restructuring within the Trinity group, causing the label to skip the Parisian event.
Paris was also expecting to see the latest menswear collections by Givenchy and Saint Laurent, but it will still have to wait. Clare Waight Keller picked Pitti Uomo for her first menswear-only show, while Anthony Vaccarello opted once again for the USA. After showing in New York last year, he unveiled Saint Laurent’s latest collection in Malibu, California, on June 6. In Paris, the label will continue to show the men’s and women’s collections together at the womenswear Fashion Week.
The Paris Fashion Week will end in style on Sunday June 23, with an intense last day showcasing Lanvin’s new menswear creative director and emerging designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin. The 28-year-old stylist, winner of the ANDAM’s creative label prize in 2018, will tread the Paris Fashion Week catwalks for the first time on Sunday afternoon.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin was born in Brussels, grew up in Africa and moved to Paris when he was 7. He now divides his time between the French capital and London. A graduate of the Duperré fashion design school, he worked at Saint Laurent before joining Balmain’s women’s ready-to-wear design studio, under the aegis of Olivier Rousteing. De Saint Sernin launched his own menswear line in 2017. His are sensual clothes that strike a subtle balance between elegance and eroticism, celebrating the male body above all.
Finally, the names to look out for among official presentations include Japanese labels Auralee and Visvim, Casablanca, the label by French-Moroccan designer Charaf Tajer, French design collective Gamut and Lazoschmidl, founded in 2014 by Swedish-German duo Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl, which showed off-calendar in Paris last January, and will do so again on June 22. Also, Nanushka by Hungarian designer Sandra Sandor, and Rhude, a street label founded in Los Angeles in 2013 by young designer Rhuigi Villasenor, who hails from the Philippines.
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