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Stéphane Rolland Autumn Winter 2013-2014 Haute Couture Collection in Paris (with ITW)

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The artistic performance by the spanish dancer rafael amargo during stéphane rolland’s entire catwalk gave the tempo and installed the decor with a collection turning towards spain and velazquez. frills were embroidered in lacquered rhodoids placed on shoulders like sculptures or on the side of sheath dresses. oversized sleeves shoot out, capes float, a hooded tulle cape envelopes a jumpsuit and maxi-dresses reverse the evening silhouette, accentuating the masculine-feminine duality that the couturier wanted for this haute couture autumn-winter 2013/2014 collection. interview stéphane rolland : it was suddenly very evident to me, in front of a tableau by velazquez that we all know, when i said to myself: that’s it the collection is there, working architecture, blacks, as well as bringing something else to it, this austerity, this rigour, but not making it too boring or too austere either. so, how can you give this sensuality to a velazquez spirit…, it’s not obvious. so, i worked a lot with the rigour of the cut, obviously blacks and i brought in blues too; night blues, and there’s a touch of light with the white collars too. i wanted to take masculine and feminine and mix them, working old fashioned collars, we used lacquering and lustring, techniques that aren’t used anymore, so we had to find old-fashioned techniques that weren’t obvious. after, i worked on new embroideries; i worked on kaleidoscopes in stripes, which were painted. we plasticised leathers to make sculptures on the shoulder, there were a lot of new techniques and technology used, but at the same time the collection stayed very chic, elegant, parisian and refined. music from the fashion show