From milan to paris and passing by london, the return of the highlights from the masculine collections for spring-summer 2014.
depart to milan: the idea of a journey was represented instantly with the décor and staging made in reference to faraway lands…it was a desert for fendi with a sand dune. vivienne westwood put her focus on india and all its diversity and unit benan invited us to his home town, populated with turkish men with masked faces.
the dirk bikkembergs collection took us to the 38th floor of the lombardie tower, for a breathtaking view. roberto cavalli plunged us into italy, opening the doors of a palace which is never open to the public, moncler adapted spectacular staging inviting us this season to a cricket ground and the label dsquared thrust us into the middle of an equatorial jungle, to our great delight…missoni evoked africa with its famous zig-zag knit and prada to hawaii with its printed motifs.
in terms of casting, the beautiful male was found at milan. here, man is powerful, showing his muscles. and even when we found him in a skirt or with lipstick, he stayed masculine.
in summer, it’s well known that flowers grow and find themselves in the male wardrobe. there was an array of floral motifs for summer.
another key event: ermenegildo zegna signalled the return of stefano pilati, after 15 months of absences from the catwalks. the designer imposed with talent his own personal touch to this true institution of italian savoir-faire. we will comment on the wearing of sandals with a suit, bringing a touch of omnipresent casual chic to all of the designers.
casual chic was emulated in the 3 capitals of fashion week, and notably at london where male fashion imposes itself more and more in the diary. spearhead of the ‘other-sleeve’ fashion: burberry who have enchanted british fashion week after many years of catwalking in milan.
the mis-match suit was seen on all of the catwalks, finding a strong echo in paris: less formal, more deconstructed, it was found everywhere, and in haute couture version at berluti.
another great trend which we will not break away from next summer: shorts.
gad elmaleh affirms… thom browne has already adopted it. shorts were worn for every occasion, for the city with a jacket, in a mini version, as an all-in-one or with leggings for a neo-urban look.
and for once, tradition no longer exists. colour will not be the appointment of the summer, from aubergines and greys, you would think that it was autumn. even in fashion there are no longer seasons or principles. yohji yamamoto imposed the skirt for men. the border between men and women no longer exists. ditto at saint laurent, hedi slimane continues on his launch with a wardrobe which could be mixed, a skinny silhouette in stripy t-shirts, skin-tight jeans and a red lip.
at rick owens, men with their heads bowed created the ambiance…
we found once more, the true man, healthy and sporty on the catwalk at louis vuitton before a room with david beckham…
at hermès, véronique nichanian also appreciated the man, with a certain blasé sophistication.
lanvin advocated suits like a tracksuit…but with the same watchword for all: for next summer, always stay chic….
copyright-free music :bandi & nikit-2012